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Dragon Neubau-Fahrzeug Nr. 3-5
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Bill Plunk



Joined: 17 Sep 2006
Posts: 1770

PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 2:15 pm    Post subject: Dragon Neubau-Fahrzeug Nr. 3-5 Reply with quote

Build log for DML's kit #6690, Neubau-Fahrzeug Nr. 3-5 Rheinmetall-Fahrestall und Krupp-Turm Geanderte MG-Turme (try saying that 3x fast!) Smile

Build will be done OOB.



Last edited by Bill Plunk on Sun Nov 08, 2015 11:41 am; edited 1 time in total
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Bill Plunk



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 6:48 pm    Post subject: WIP 12-16-12 Reply with quote

Got this one off and rolling with the usual hurdle coming first in the form of the road wheels. The Germans were suckers for lots of wheels and the Neubau doesn't disappoint in that area. Beginning with Step 1, I cleaned up the mold seams on each of the wheel halves with a sanding stick and assembled the pairs. 11 main wheels per side plus 1 idler pair plus 4 return rollers made for no less than 32 wheels per side or 64 in total. The sprockets were also assembled at this point to go with everything else.



Those wheels will need to be painted prior to installation into the suspension due to the way the suspension is designed which is what is addressed in Step 2. The vast majority of parts in the kit are devoted to the suspension (and tracks) due to the vehicle's design. This step calls for the construction of the wheel pairs and their installation into the long plates that go into the hull sponsons. I checked to see if it's possible to add the plates without the wheel pairs installed and the design doesn't allow for that, so the plates were left uninstalled until after the wheel pairs are painted and installed. I did assemble the bogey halves, the instructions contain an error in that the parts should be paired up with D11 going with D23 and D12 going with D24. I also added the mount halves for the large idler wheel that support the 11th wheel on either side.



Step 2 also adds the sprockets and their capture plates as well as a couple of hatches for the sponson sides. Step 3 adds the hull belly plate to the large one-piece hull and also adds the rear plate and some other small details like the access hatch, brake light, and tow points.





That's as far as things got for this round, next up will be doing the paint work and detailing on the suspension.
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Bill Plunk



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 1:35 pm    Post subject: WIP 12-23-12 Reply with quote

After studying the rest of the hull construction steps and wanting to avoid having to do multiple paint-work sessions, I decided to go ahead and install as much as possible on the hull first before starting to paint.

So of course that lead me to continue on from the last update and add the details from Step 5. This includes all the driver's area hatches and the left side hull hatches as well as the front headlight. The option is given to pose it raised or lowered and since the kit provides a clear lens, I opted to pose it raised. The grab handle for the driver's hood hatch needed a little bit of putty help as the holes provided are slightly larger than the handle bases. The track installation called for in this step was skipped for now.



Steps 6-8 deal with the fenders and also adds details to the right hull side that more or less mirror what was already on on the left hull side. One little difference is the need to drill out a hole in the turret ring base to take the 2nd width indicator light, this is a little tricky as you have to guesstimate where the hole should go and you should NOT drill the hole all the way through the hull in order for the light to sit at the right depth to match the other side. I used a #76 finger drill for that purpose.



I cleaned up the fenders and did a test fit with some poster putty to see how they would sit and whether or not I could add the front mud flaps or not and still be able to install them over the tracks and idlers when those are added. The answer to that is no, so the front flaps had to be kept off for now. The fender tools and details will get added later after painting.



I went ahead and assembled the main twin muffler/exhausts for the right fender side. The exhaust ends only have depressions to represent their openings so I drilled them out to give them more depth. I also added the curved extension pipe that connects into the engine deck, the fit here needs to be precise to avoid issues with the fender and exhaust sitting correctly, so the dry-fit with the fender helped ensure that occurred. The full exhaust is removable for easier painting and detailing off the fender as a result.



Step 9 deals only with the front mud flaps. Those were assembled and set off to the side for separate painting.



Completing things for the hull is Step 10 which adds the details to the rear engine deck. I opted for the styrene air intake grill slats as the PE option was pretty fragile to work with and didn't offer much of a gain in the looks department. It's also worth noting that the diagram shows the grills (both the styrene and PE option) installing upside down, so be careful to get the orientation right prior to committing to glue on that part.



Next up will be working on the turrets.
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Bill Plunk



Joined: 17 Sep 2006
Posts: 1770

PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2012 12:31 pm    Post subject: WIP 12-25-12 Reply with quote

A special Merry Christmas update is in order for this project considering it is, after all, a Christmas present build! Smile

Continuing on with the turrets, Step 11 addresses the twin MG turrets that are cousins of the type seen on the Pz I. I had no desire to display any of the view flaps in the open position so skipped the use of the interior parts and installed them all in the closed position. Curiously DML provides clear armored glass inserts for only the flat side flaps and not the curved flaps...for whatever reason, the curved flaps get an ordinary gray styrene insert. I opted for the hexagonal style of lifting hooks, parts D52, as those are the type commonly seen in the Nr. 3-5 vehicles based on the available reference photos. The MG13s were left off for now and will be installed later after painting. With care during assembly by avoiding getting any glue on part D16, the mantlets can be left movable although their range of movement/positioning is restricted by the turret design.



Step 12 begins work on the large main turret and attaches the base of the turret to the top, adds the side hatches, and installs the commander's cupola. The side hatches here also receive ordinary gray styrene vision blocks instead of clear parts and without any kind of interior provided, there's not much point to posing the doors open unless you're going to stuff a figure in there...so mine were closed up. The commander's cupola assembles as a 'stack' of multiple parts and some putty was needed to fill the gap between the cupola and the signal flag port extension that attaches to it.



Step 13 adds a lot of delicate detail to the turret side so I bypassed it momentarily to work on Step 14 which assembles and adds the side-by-side main armament. The smaller 3.7cm antitank gun barrel was drilled out slightly to give the barrel a more in-scale diameter and thickness for the muzzle opening. The two guns are paired up in the mantlet as halves, so the resulting join seam needed to be carefully sanded away to create a seamless part. The base of the mantlet is a separate part and shouldn't have a gap, so some Squadron Green putty thinned with liquid glue was used to correct that issue. While the instructions don't indicate it, if you're careful with the assembly and get the alignment of the mantlet base plate and the swivel hub that attaches to it (part B4) correct, it will 'trap' the part sufficiently to allow the main armament to elevate and hold it's position.



Returning to Step 13, I added the lifting eyes, the antenna and holding tray, and the turret hatch latches. Two different styles of latch are offered and parts B45/44 are the correct style for Nr. 3-5 so those were installed accordingly.



Last but not least, Step 15 adds the turrets to the hull so a sample shot of them in place was called for!



That concludes all the major construction so paint work will be up next!
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Bill Plunk



Joined: 17 Sep 2006
Posts: 1770

PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 6:42 pm    Post subject: WIP 12-30-12 Reply with quote

One of the downsides of the holiday season is that it's also cold season! I've been sidelined with a cold the last few days and that ruled out any possibility of painting, so I made use of the available time to take care of one of the less-glamorous-but-necessary tasks...cleaning up the tracks for this beast.

The kit supplies the individual links on sprues of 40 links with three attachment points per link.



The instructions call for 124 links per side so I removed and cleaned up a total of 250 links just to have a couple handy when the time comes to assemble the track runs. The links aren't handed so I only separated them into two bags in terms of the split of links necessary for each run.



Doing this kind of thing while listening or watching a football game makes the repetition less onerous...and I'm glad to have it out of the way! Hopefully next weekend will afford some time to get things back on track for the paintwork that needs to happen for the build to progress.
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Bill Plunk



Joined: 17 Sep 2006
Posts: 1770

PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 5:31 pm    Post subject: WIP 03-16-13 Reply with quote

Life has a way of getting in the way at times in terms of building models but for the first time in a long time I was able to get back to the bench and make some much-needed progress on this build.

I had done all the major construction with the initial plan of painting everything and then adding the suspension, tracks, and fenders but I decided to go a slightly different route instead. After looking at how the fenders install, I'm going to put in the suspension and tracks and then add the fenders and do the paint work for the vehicle in two stages. The first stage involves the lower hull, so I masked off the glue-line for the fenders so they will have a clean surface to mate up with for installation. I used MM Italian Dark Brown to lay down a primer coat by airbrush.



After primer, the base coat of MM enamel Panzer Schwarzgrau was applied by airbrush. One of the little side lights came off in the process, will add that back later on when it has less of a chance of getting knocked off again. The little sponson extensions that trap the idler were held in place with blue-tack and have not yet been glued in position. Camo pattern and some post-shading on the panzer gray will be done later when the rest of the hull is painted.



At the same time as I worked on the hull, I did all of the suspension components as well including the numerous road wheels. They were primered just like the hull and I airbrushed MM enamel Gunmetal for the rubber portions. Using a draftsman's circle template, the hubs were airbrushed with the Schwarzgrau to round things out.



Next up will be the fun of putting all the suspension components together and making sure it all sits level before tackling the tracks.
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Bill Plunk



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Posts: 1770

PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 1:59 pm    Post subject: WIP 03-24-13 Reply with quote

Work continued in the latest session on the lower hull and suspension. The design on this vehicle is a bit tricky and Dragon used a modular approach with a separate plate for the trucks to install to with the plate installing into the hull sponsons. The real challenge in this approach is getting all 10 wheels lined up correctly on either side by trapping them between the truck mounts. I made an attempt to leave the wheels able to rotate but found it necessary to glue them in place on their mount pins as the truck halves didn't have enough natural tension to keep them from popping out otherwise. Both sides were assembled and allowed to dry thoroughly before proceeding.



As already mentioned, the suspension on this vehicle is a complex design. After studying things for a bit, I determined the best route was to install the front idlers, tension wheels, and support plates first to ensure I had a straight alignment between them, the drive sprockets, and the return rollers that would install along the top run. The return rollers are similar to the road wheel trucks in that they trap the roller between two mount halves. The installation of the roller mounts into the sponsons must be precise as all four have to align perfectly for the track runs to come. Dragon molded a small step on either side of the sponson openings to help with the positioning and the fit tolerance here is tight. It was necessary to scrape paint with a needle file to get the right fit and the position of the outer half of the mount is the key since it has a small stop in its base to prevent it from sliding in too far on the position step. After I had installed the rollers on both sides, some light touch-up with the panzer gray used earlier tied everything together. I also took the opportunity to create the sprocket teeth wear using some MM non-buffing Metalizer Steel and dry-brushed enamel Burnt Umber since this is the last time it would be easily accessible.



The next step was to assemble the track runs and test them for fit and sag. The instructions call for 124 links per side and that worked out perfectly for the right side but the left needed 1 more link to get things in shape. Each track side consists of 4 parts of 30-35 links that can be separated for painting and weathering off the vehicle. The runs will be allowed to set up thoroughly for 24 hours before moving on to the next phase.



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Bill Plunk



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:25 am    Post subject: WIP 03-28-13 Reply with quote

The track saga continues with some more progress to report. After letting the 4 runs per side thoroughly set up for at least 24 hours, I carefully removed them from the suspension for painting. Since the two sides are not identical, it was essential to avoid any mix-ups between them, so I used an old MK track box with a divider and handy post-it note labels to keep things separate. I airbrushed a base coat of MM Burnt Umber as the foundation and let that cure for 24 hours before moving on to the next phase.



The track runs were further detailed by dry-brushing MM enamel Steel with a large round 0 sable brush followed by a light wash of MM enamel Raw Umber to tone down the Steel and tie things together. Once the wash had dried, the track runs were knitted together on both sides and installed.






Next up will be adding the fenders and continuing the paint work for the top side.
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Bill Plunk



Joined: 17 Sep 2006
Posts: 1770

PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 5:23 pm    Post subject: WIP 03-31-13 Reply with quote

First off, Happy Easter to those who observe/celebrate the holiday!

Lots of progress to report so we'll get right to it. First order of business was to install the fenders. I used a combination of regular glue on the tab slots and liquid glue along the edges to get a good and level join. I also reinstalled the little side hull lights that had gotten knocked off earlier. While not visible in the photo, I took advantage of that opportunity to drill out their solid faces with a pin vise to allow for greater detail later on.





Prior to painting, I masked off the lower hull and tracks using a combination of thin strips of sheet styrene inserted under the fenders and blue painter's tape. Primer coat of Italian Dark Brown was applied by airbrush as the foundation. Three cardboard tubes and painter's tape created handles so I could easily paint the three turrets.



Base coat of MM Panzer Schwarzgrau came next.



Base coat highlights were added using an 80/20 mix of Schwarzgrau and Light Gray. Highlights were applied semi-randomly but with the main intent of creating a post-shade effect.



Then came the fun part, applying the disruptive camo pattern suitable for a vehicle in Norway in 1940. I used MM enamel Schokoladenbraun and applied the pattern free-hand.





Paint will get the chance to cure thoroughly over the course of the next week and attention will shift to the remaining equipment and fender details.
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Bill Plunk



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Posts: 1770

PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 4:03 pm    Post subject: WIP 04-07-13 Reply with quote

Latest round of effort focused on the details for the fenders. The Neubau has a lot of fender space for tools and such but doesn't use the 'normal' type of clamps for them, so I stayed with the kit-supplied clamps and made minor modifications in thinning a couple of the molded-on handles to be more in-scale. Reference pics showed that the crews added two sets of spare tracks to the right hand fender so I used some spare PE brass strip and some Lion Roar hex nuts to create some simple mounts along with two runs of 4 links from the left-over kit supplied tracks. I used a #76 finger drill to open up the pin holes on the first and last link for each spare run for added detail. Last but not least, using the same finger drill, I also opened up the threaded ends on the gun-cleaning rods and used a short length of white rod styrene to simulate the 'male' end of the rod with the cleaning swab.

All the tools were painted using various colors. Metal portions were base coated with MM non-buffing metalizer Gunmetal and lightly dry-brushed with MM Steel. Wood portions were given a base coat of 50/50 MM Dunkelgelb/Light Gray followed by a wash of MM Leather and then dusted with Burnt Umber artist pastels. For the mufflers, I applied a base coat of metalizer Gunmetal, followed by a wash of MM Leather, then stippled MM Rust to create a random pattern. This was followed up with some dry-brushed MM enamel Burnt Umber to blend things back together a bit and tone down the Rust.



Then the tools were installed in place on the vehicle. It's worth noting that the small MG turrets need to be in place before doing this as the front turret in particular can't clear the track tensioning wrench once it's installed. The rear turret also has clearance issues with the jack mount but can still rotate enough in the opposite direction to allow it to be removed. The turret MGs were painted and detailed in the same fashion as the metal tools and glued into place in their respective mounts.

I also used the available time to add some subtle variation to the Schokoladenbraun camo pattern applied last time around. I used MM Italian Dark Brown via airbrush to create some slight lightening and shadows here and there as further prep for the weathering work to come.





Although not shown clearly in the above photos, I also used some regular enamel Silver to paint the interior faces of the small side lights and the large front headlight. Tamiya Clear Red was used for the rear brake light as well to round things out in the detail department.

Next up will be sealing everything and applying the markings.
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Bill Plunk



Joined: 17 Sep 2006
Posts: 1770

PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 3:10 pm    Post subject: WIP 04-14-13 Reply with quote

One of the most interesting things about the Neubaus in my opinion is not just their rarity but their individuality. #10 has a special case of individuality and the kit provides for this with the decal markings. As you can see in the reference photo below (posted for discussion purposes only), the markings on this vehicle underwent different transformations depending on when in 1940 it is depicted. This particular photo is sometime after the end of April 1940 and includes what appears to be a crew-memorial dated 25.4.40 on the right rear turret. The #10 insignia have also been painted over but are still clearly visible on both the turret sides and rear.



The Dragon finishing guide provides for this but with the added twist that the decal markings are all in white...no panzer gray numbers are provided. So to recreate this particular look, some extra creativity is called for. I started by sealing the previous paint work with a coat of Future acrylic floor polish by airbrush and let that thoroughly dry before adding the markings. The vehicle doesn't have a lot of markings, but most are large/prominent. These were all applied using Walther's Solvaset to get them to snug down tight to the surface. The left side turret number had to be carefully cut at the top of the 0 to allow it to fit over the lifting eye but all the others fit perfectly.





Once the decals were set, they were sealed with another coat of Future by airbrush. Then the fun part began. Working with a fine detail brush and the lightened 80/20 Panzer Gray/Light Gray mix I'd sprayed earlier to create highlights, I hand painted over the white turret numbers. After the paint was dry, I added the three 'R' markings along with the Feldwebel Faulhaber memorial decal again using Solvaset. Once they were set, a final coat of Future sealed them all up and created a uniform surface for the weathering to come.









Next weekend I will be at the AMPS show in Atlanta so this one may not get an update for a couple of weeks as a result, but the next step will be to start in on the weathering.
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Bill Plunk



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 4:52 pm    Post subject: WIP 04-28-13 Reply with quote

While I had a lot of fun at the AMPS show in Atlanta last weekend, the Neubau needed some more attention to keep it on track and not feel so lonely. I started in on the weathering stages but with a dark vehicle the process is a little different. Normally the weathering will darken a finish but as dark as the gray/brown scheme is already dark colors, in this case the weathering lightens it. My goal is to create a dusty look to this big machine, so I started by applying an overall wash of thinned MM enamel Raw Sienna with a large #1 round sable brush. It doesn't have to be neat/even at this stage because of the stages to follow. I also applied the wash more heavily to the fenders and lower sides to provide a sort of demarcation between areas that would get different degrees of dirt/dust exposure.



The Raw Sienna makes for a great foundation to apply dot filters over. The wash isn't sealed as it's not intended to remain as a separate layer but rather as an easier way to apply an 'earth tone' color that will be incorporated with the dot filters. I used MM enamel Panzer Schwarzgrau and Light Gray as my filter color choices. Small dots were applied with spotter brushes and then a square blender brush lightly dampened with thinner was used to blend away the dots and create a streaking/filter effect using repeated strokes in the direction I wanted the streaking to flow.

Here's the turret in the process of getting filters applied:



And how it looks after the filters are done:



This process was applied to the entire vehicle working small sections at a time. Because the enamel dots will dry much faster than oils, it's important to work small areas at a time but the advantage is that the faster drying time allows for a lot of progress in a relatively short space of time.





My experiment with the turret numbers also paid off handsomely. No issues whatsoever with the different layers playing nicely with each other during these weathering phases.

Next up will be a pin wash treatment to bring out some of the details and then on to the pigments!
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Bill Plunk



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PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2013 4:15 pm    Post subject: WIP 05-05-13 Reply with quote

Only a modest amount of progress to report in this session as bench time has been precious the past week. Still moving forward though and that's what counts! This round of effort dealt with applying a pin wash of MM enamel Burnt Umber to provide some depth to the raised details and add another layer to the finish. I used a small pointed brush to apply the wash and after it was dry, used the same brush and some clean thinner to make minor adjustments here and there.





Next up will be the pigment weathering for the lower hull and track runs.
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Bill Plunk



Joined: 17 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 5:00 pm    Post subject: WIP 05-11-13 Reply with quote

With tomorrow being Mother's Day and all, this week's update takes place on a Saturday as a result!

Lots of great progress to report, the build is 99% complete. I picked up from the last round by applying a dull coat using MM Lusterless Flat in the spray can.



After that had dried, it was on to the pigment weathering. I selected Mig Dry Mud to produce the dusty effects as seen in the reference photo posted earlier in the build. This was applied as a wet mixture using ordinary tap water with a drop of liquid dish washing soap added to break the surface tension. It's applied liberally using a sable brush to get it into all the various nooks and crannies.



The wet mix is allowed to air dry and then the removal process begins. The first step is remove excess pigment using a round stiff bristle brush. I wear a dust mask during this process as inhaling the fine pigment powder is not a good idea. After the round brush, I use a series of smaller square and rectangular stiff bristle brushes to get into the harder to reach places and remove excess where necessary.



Next more of the pigment is removed/adjusted using dry cotton swabs. A pair of tweezers is kept handy to remove any snagged fibers that get loose from the swab in the process.



Because of the large hull sides on this vehicle, I wanted to show some dust streaking effects with the pigments. This was accomplished by using a water-dampened large sable brush and drawing the brush downward to pull the pigments into streak lines.





Last but not least, the final details were added for the large head lamp on the hull front in terms of the kit-provided clear lens. The smaller lights on the hull sides under the main turret received some 'lenses' of their own courtesy of small amounts of Testors Window-Maker glue added with a toothpick.



I also took a set of walk-around photos to see if there's anything amiss for final adjustment. Will check tomorrow to see if I need to tweak anything before declaring this one 'done'.









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Bill Plunk



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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 3:08 pm    Post subject: Completion 05-12-13 Reply with quote

After a few tweaks and adjustments, this one was off to the photo booth for its final walk-around shots.













And just for the curious who wonder 'why don't we see more photos of the 2-tone in b/w?', here may be the answer Wink :

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