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Trumpeter 1/350 HMS Dreadnought 1907
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Bill Plunk



Joined: 17 Sep 2006
Posts: 1772

PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 5:02 pm    Post subject: Trumpeter 1/350 HMS Dreadnought 1907 Reply with quote

Build log for Trumpter's 1/350 kit #05328 HMS Dreadnought 1907.

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Bill Plunk



Joined: 17 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 7:19 pm    Post subject: WIP 08-04-14 Reply with quote

Dreadnought project took its first steps today in terms of getting the hull together. The first step in the Trumpeter instructions assembles the two-part full hull along with 7 internal braces to stiffen the hull and also provide some support for the main deck. I had heard about other builders having issues with a gap in the hull join particularly in the middle, so I did a test fit first to see how things would play together.



What I noticed was that the hull fit together very well at the bow and stern and only in the middle was there a slight gap. I also noticed that the braces had a very tight friction fit except for the smaller bow/stern braces into their mounting holes. I used some strips of masking tape along the bottom of the hull and then positioned each of the braces, squeezing in from the sides so that they would close up evenly. Once I did that, the slight gap in the bottom virtually disappeared and what remained could be closed up with some strategic pressure and rubber bands. I applied some liquid glue at the bow and stern first and used finger pressure to close those up until they set so I had a solid place to start from.

Then to avoid any problems with the hull potentially warping at the top while I worked on the bottom, I used the main deck insert to help it hold its position and taped it down, then added two rubber bands to help wit the small gap on the bottom.



Starting at the bow and working my way back, I applied liquid glue in small sections and gently squeezed the hull together in combination with the rubber bands until the glue 'grabbed', then moved further down the seam repeating the process.



After the glue had set, the rubber bands came off and some light sanding of the seam using sanding sticks was all that was needed. I did need to apply just a small amount of putty around the propeller shaft area of the seam on the stern. This was due to a slight gap created when I removed the sprue connection point there though and not something inherent in the kit.



Last but not least, I knocked together the kit-supplied stand so I could have something to rest the hull on. I'm not too thrilled with it as a permanent base but it will serve for now.



The main deck insert sits flush with the hull top edge so I can already tell that when I add the wood decking it will increase the deck height ever so slightly. I think that's actually going to be to my advantage though in terms of helping provide just a smidge of added contact surface for the railings but have to see about that when the time comes.
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Bill Plunk



Joined: 17 Sep 2006
Posts: 1772

PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 6:06 pm    Post subject: WIP 08-05-14 Reply with quote

Day 2 of the Dreadnought project saw the main deck get installed permanently in place. Overall the fit of the deck is quite good with just a little bit of pressure needed at the top sides in a couple of spots. I used liquid glue and some strategically placed rubber bands to hold it all together while the glue set.



While that was going on I turned my attention to the main guns and turrets. The kit-provided barrels have the blast bags molded on and depends on those as the contact points for the barrels to be installed. The blast bags weren't fitted in 1907 and my Master replacement barrels are the correct shape and length but have the standard pins on their bases...but there's nothing to actually attach them to. Fortunately the kit provides 6 turrets on the sprues so I decided on a little test first.

I took some Aves epoxy-sculpt and mixed together a small amount to provide the means to mount the barrels. The trick here is that the replacement barrels need to have some of their bases inside the turret to be the right length but getting that right with both barrels can be tricky. Fortunately the Kagero book includes scale drawings with a top down plan view included, so I used that as my guide on how far the barrels should extend. The Aves is a two-part epoxy putty that will dry hard as a rock once it cures but has a good bit of work time, just the right amount of flexibility needed in this circumstance.



The base of the turret was added once I was sure I had the length and placement correct, but not glued in place. Adding the base caused the barrels to change their position and elevation just a bit due to the nature of the turret design and the general alignment.



Just to be sure I had things lined up correctly, I placed the turret in the A mount on the super deck and used a wooden toothpick balanced on one of the sky lights to ensure the gun barrels would hold the proper elevation while the Aves set up.



I'll leave that overnight to see if the experiment was a success...if it is, then I'll repeat it with the other 4 turrets needed and go from there. Fingers crossed!
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Bill Plunk



Joined: 17 Sep 2006
Posts: 1772

PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 6:47 pm    Post subject: WIP 08-06-14 Reply with quote

So after letting the first turret set up as a test bed (it set hard as a rock, so that part worked wonders), I realized that one of the limitations of this approach was ensuring the gun separation and alignment between the two barrels stayed the same. I thought about constructing a jig or support for the barrels outside the turret to help with that and then opted instead to use a piece of sprue inside the turret. So back to the Kagero scale drawings I went, used some small pieces of blue tack to hold the barrels in place over the drawings, and then marked a section of sprue at the correct width. Drilled out two holes and then test fit the barrels and the sprue piece inside the turret to make sure it would all fit and line up correctly with the barrels at the right length.



Process was repeated 3 times for the remaining four turrets to get their little supports and then CA gel used to permanently secure the barrels to the sprue chunk.



When I test fit the barrels with the turret bottoms and in the mounts on the hull, there was still too much play in the barrels, so I solved that issue by adapting my first test approach and using some more Aves epoxy sculpt to secure the bases.



This combo did the trick nicely while still allowing for some minor height adjustments with the different turrets. The turrets were placed and no toothpicks were needed this time around.





Still a lot more to do in terms of detailing the turrets but the guns themselves are now securely installed. One of those details is the 12pdr guns, so I started work on those. Clipped off the styrene barrel at the appropriate point and drilled a mount hole with a #78 micro drill and used CA gel to secure the Master brass barrel to the breech. There's 27 of these so this will take a little time to get them all done.



Last edited by Bill Plunk on Sat Sep 20, 2014 1:25 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Bill Plunk



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Posts: 1772

PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 6:02 pm    Post subject: WIP 08-07-14 Reply with quote

Managed to get all 27 of the 12pdrs built and ready for use. The Trumpeter instructions incorrectly tell you to install 29 of them (and provide 32 in total on the sprues), but the two port-side bow guns that are called for in Step 12 weren't installed on the actual ship, so that's something for the unwary to watch out for.



The rest of the day was spent prepping the main deck and super deck for the Wood Hunter set. I wanted to see how the set would fit and also get a handle on what could be installed prior to painting and what would have to wait until after the decks were added. The main deck is a snug fit in all respects and has the wood go right up to the outline for the super deck, so I'll have to trim that back slightly so the super deck can sit at the proper height and alignment.



The rear deck area had a snug fit as well and the Eduard upgrade parts for some of the hatches and other elements are slightly wider than the kit's molded on versions, so that would've been a complication if I'd installed them first before the deck, so those will have to come after where appropriate.



The super deck's insert is all one piece, so that means it's going to have to be installed first and then the enclosed faces of the superstructure portion added after.



All in all I'm impressed with the deck so far, very little in the way of modifications appear to be needed to make it work, at least for the main parts.
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Bill Plunk



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Posts: 1772

PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 7:13 pm    Post subject: WIP 08-08-14 Reply with quote

Not a huge update today but still managed some progress. After studying the instructions and doing some test fits with the front of the superstructure parts (C4, C5, and B42 in Step 4) and the bases of the funnels (A16 and A19) and the boat deck (C30), I decided to split the wood deck insert into two pieces for better handling and fit arrangement. The wood deck needed some trimming around the base of the rear funnel as well as the small blockhouse structure at the front of the interior compartment, but otherwise everything else fit like it should. The funnel and boat deck bases are only dry-fit but the front of the superstructure was permanently installed in place to make it easier to paint this area later on.



One of the things I noticed while working on the bow area was that you could see straight through the hawseholes from one side to the other. To fix that, I cut a strip of white styrene and glued it in place to blank off one set from the other.



The moment of truth had arrived, time to secure the super deck in place. Overall the fit was good except at the angled area where it joined the bow. Both sides needed some putty and sanding work with the starboard side needing more due to a larger gap.





I deliberately left off the top part of the aft superstructure, part A20, as it makes it harder to install the wood deck as well as the pair of 12pdr guns that go in that spot, so it will end up getting painted separately and installed later when the time comes. Not sure how much further I'll go before painting the first round of stuff...I'm thinking of doing it in two phases with the hull going first and then dealing with the turrets and superstructure components second to break things up a bit.
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Bill Plunk



Joined: 17 Sep 2006
Posts: 1772

PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 1:51 pm    Post subject: WIP 08-10-14 Reply with quote

Continuing on with the efforts aimed at the hull details and getting it ready for the first round of painting, I decided to add the screen covers to the front part of the anchor chain guide holes, a missing detail that isn't covered in either the Eduard PE sets or the kit. I tried several different ways of scratch-building this item including using sheet styrene and drilling out holes by hand and using some nylon mesh screen material but neither of these produced the desired result. After scrounging around in my spares bin, I found some old photo-etched steel Pzkpfw III intake screens that had what I wanted.

The challenge was to cut them to the right shape...so I created a pattern by taking a pencil and doing a rubbing with a piece of white paper over the hole's opening on the super deck to get the outline. This was cut out and then photocopied onto another sheet and only the front half trimmed out. Using some sharp sturdy scissors, I cut the mesh into the desired shape and then fine tuned it with Tamiya sprue cutters where needed until I had three suitably sized screens. The screens were glued in place with liquid glue and gently pressed down with a wooden toothpick into the desired position.





The next little detail that I needed to add were the 16 'ribs' that were welded over the waterline belt armor plate join seams on each side of the hull but which Trumpeter neglected. These can be clearly seen on the plans and in reference photos as having some thickness out from the hull vs. being just flat strips, so I settled on using some 0.6mm diameter styrene rod to do the job. They had the right width but needed to be flattened, so I secured the rod with a length of masking tape and used a sanding stick to flatten one side, then turned the rod over and flattened the other side.



The Kagero 3D scale plans were invaluable in determining their height and placement around the hull and it was through this process that I realized that Trumpeter 'mirrored' some of the hull details in terms of number/placement of portholes and hatches so in those cases my 'fall back' landmarks of choice were the torpedo net booms.



Speaking of the booms, those came next. In some spots where the booms needed to pass over the ribs, some additional sanding/flattening was needed but otherwise everything mostly played nice with each other. The kit parts only give you the option of having the booms in the stowed position and of course there's no torpedo net provided for but I'm not worried about that for my purposes.



Next were the keels. Both of mine had some warping to different degrees and in different spots on their respective parts, so some careful work with liquid glue and positioning in terms of starting at the front and working my way along in small sections was necessary to get them both in place and lined up properly.



Rounding out this stage of activity, the propeller shafts, support struts, and rudders were installed.



Tomorrow will likely see the first round of painting depending!
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Bill Plunk



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Posts: 1772

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 5:07 pm    Post subject: WIP 08-11-14 Reply with quote

First step in the hull painting process, an overall primer coat of Model Master enamel Flat Black by airbrush. This will serve 3 purposes, the 'usual' primer purpose to ensure no bare plastic is left laying around, serve as the 'boot stripe' color for easier masking on the hull, and offer the option of pre-shading for some slight variations when the hull red and gray are applied in the next rounds.



This will get the chance to set up overnight before the masking is done for the hull red to come next.
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Bill Plunk



Joined: 17 Sep 2006
Posts: 1772

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 6:55 pm    Post subject: WIP 08-12-14 Reply with quote

Second step in the hull painting process is complete. Careful masking over the black coat from yesterday and some MM Insignia Red produces the hull red portion.



After the bandages are removed, the patient seems to be doing just fine.



This will get the chance to sit overnight and then the fun begins with the gray top portions.
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Bill Plunk



Joined: 17 Sep 2006
Posts: 1772

PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 4:22 pm    Post subject: WIP 08-13-14 Reply with quote

Last step in the hull painting gone done today. Applied a custom mix of roughly 70/30 Model Master Panzer Gray and Light Gray over the primer coat while leaving the boot stripe and hull red portions masked with blue painter's tape.



After that had dried, the tape came off and there were a couple spots that needed some touch-ups around some of the 'ribs' on the waterline, so I re-masked carefully with short strips where needed and either sprayed more gray or more of the Flat Black as the case required to tighten up the boot stripe.



The sharp eyed will notice that one of the rudders is missing in the last photo...it came off during the painting session and has since been reattached. Now I have to decide whether to go ahead and permanently attach the wood decks or wait until later...decisions, decisions!
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Bill Plunk



Joined: 17 Sep 2006
Posts: 1772

PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 5:06 pm    Post subject: WIP 08-16-14 Reply with quote

I've been busy the last few days but have been getting in some progress here and there to keep the Dreadnought steaming ahead! I wanted to be sure that the wood decking wouldn't have any adverse reactions to either Future or my preferred flat lacquer, Testors Lusterless Flat, so I rigged up a simple test using the turret cut-out pieces from the Wood Hunter deck and sprayed one with Future only, one with the Lusterless Flat only, and a third with both to see if anything negative would occur. After letting it sit for 24 hours, all three test subjects appeared perfectly normal and fully functional so I went ahead and attached the decks permanently in place for the main deck and super deck areas.

The Wood Hunter deck is self-adhesive backed with a very thin plastic film that needs to be removed for the adhesive to be exposed. I found the best way to do that was to use a strip of masking tape to 'lift' the film at the start and then peel it back as needed. Occasionally the backing film would leave a section behind or not peel completely and in those cases the masking tape trick worked perfectly to lift those sections away quickly and easily. I used some wooden toothpicks and a paint brush handle in different spots to ensure the deck laid down evenly and experienced no bubbles or buckling in the process.



After the decks were on, one thing I needed to validate was that the breakwaters would sit at the right height and not interfere with the turret gun elevations. So a quick dry-fit was in order and I also took the opportunity to fit the breakwater along with the rectangular piece it relates to on the X turret so that I could paint and work with it as a single piece vs. two separate pieces. The breakwaters will be painted a bit later along with the turrets to take advantage of having the AB out.





That left me free to continue working on the turrets so I could start their paint work in the next phases. First up though I needed to remove the molded on detail on the turret top in order for the Eduard PE replacement parts to fit and sit level. I used a square micro chisel to do that quickly and relatively pain-free.



Each turret received its three sight scope housings and kit-supplied PE top covers. The Eduard overlays are dry-fit only at this point as they will be painted separately in a darker gray before they get permanently attached and it's much easier to do that with them off the turrets vs on.

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Bill Plunk



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 6:07 pm    Post subject: WIP 08-18-14 Reply with quote

Made some progress today in the area of the superstructure decks. I started in on the boat deck level and the first order of business was checking the fit/placement of the wood deck panel for this area. Did a quick test along with the conning tower to make sure everything would play nice and no major issues to report...so the deck will go on later after some paint for the deck components.



Then the real fun began, the actual construction for the boat deck. This involves about 25-30 different parts depending on how you attack it. I decided the best bet was to start at the ends and work toward the middle, especially since all the support posts/rods are separate pieces and they all need some time to dry while still keeping their alignment. Since there are a lot of pieces that fit to these, I opted to leave the middle connection unglued for the time being. The bases of the funnels are only dry fit and not permanently secured yet.



Everything in this area is a tight fit and fragile, so I suppose it's a good thing that Trumpeter didn't try to mold them all as integrated pieces. More effort will be spent on this area tomorrow to add the relevant details like the signal flag bins and such.
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Bill Plunk



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 5:08 pm    Post subject: WIP 08-19-14 Reply with quote

Carrying on from yesterday, I spent some more time on the boat deck. I installed all the signal flag lockers and some other odds and ends that populate this area. The admiral's day cabin was replaced courtesy of the Eduard set. Both halves of the boat deck will be left in this condition until after painting to make it easier to handle them and do the installation later on once the super deck has all its stuff added.



I also devoted some attention to the funnels and the conning towers. The Eduard set provided the cable stays and I used a #78 finger drill to open up the vent pipe tops on the funnels for a little added detail. It's worth pointing out that the Trumpeter instructions call for a pair of PE ladders, PE16B, be added to the base of the aft funnel but the fit is so tight for it as it slides in with the boat deck that I left them off. I might be able to figure out a way to still add them later...but not sure.

The Eduard set also provides a replacement for the range-finder platform on the aft conning tower but has you bend it up into a weird configuration that resembles a baby cradle. The Trumpeter part, F14, has the wrong type of base, so I opted for a hybrid solution. I kept the base portion of the Eduard piece but removed the railings and will add those later using either some of the Eduard or Trumpeter rails that are duplicates of each other.



Just to make sure everything is still playing nice before we commit to paint, I did a test fit of all the components.



This is as far as I'm going to take things before doing some painting and working on the super deck interior as the boat deck pieces are too fragile to leave laying around for long.
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Bill Plunk



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 4:33 pm    Post subject: WIP 08-20-14 Reply with quote

They say the devil's in the details...well today the devil tasked me with working on the searchlights. Since a few of these go on the super deck and the boat deck, I decided it was as good a time as any to tackle them all and get them ready for painting along with the other details. The kit supplies you with 14 but only 13 are needed. I went ahead and prepped all 14 just to have a spare since the Eduard PE set includes 14 bezels as well.

First up was drilling out the faces of the lights. This was done with a pin vise by hand while the lights were still on the sprues. This made it much easier to handle them and control the drill bit vs. trying to do it with them off the sprues.



Once that was taken care of, they were removed from the sprues and cleaned up where needed. The Eduard bezel faces were added using liquid glue and a spit-moistened toothpick to help in the pick-up-and-placement of each little bezel.



Once painted, these will get further detailed for the reflective surfaces and what not.
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Bill Plunk



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 3:22 pm    Post subject: WIP 08-22-14 Reply with quote

Lots of progress to report today. First up were the baffles and screens for the funnels. Trumpeter provides these as multiple PE parts (5 different parts for each funnel) and they are all extremely fine/fragile. The internal baffles are probably the most fragile as they require a lot of bends but the part itself isn't that sturdy to begin with. One thing that Trumpeter does that I like is they provide their PE with a laminated adhesive sheet...if you only peel off the top sheet, the bottom sheet remains stuck to the back and you can use that to your advantage for parts like this. By only freeing one leg at a time and bending it up into place, it was possible to get all the legs into position where needed...then one last cut to free the baffle from the fret.



Then the real fun begins...I opted to glue the baffles into place first inside the funnel cap using liquid glue, then added the outside ring, and finally the top portion of the screen. The funnel tops are only dry fit for now to make it easier to paint them separately from the funnel stacks as masking due to all the PE is clearly not an option.



After studying the rigging diagrams, I decided to add some rings for the signal flag lines that will be rigged later on. I used the fine copper chain that came with the Hunter deck and clipped out 12 links, cut them in half with fine wire cutters, and glued them in place with CA.



Then it was finally time for some more paint to fly...I primed everything with Flat Black since I needed to spray some anyway for the funnel tops. The turret tops were sprayed with Panzer Gray and everything else got the same custom gray mix that was applied to the hull. In order to paint the 12 pdrs, I stuck them in small blobs of blue tack putty and then stuck the putty to the masking tape so I could paint them more easily since they have mount pins on their bases.



That will get a chance to cure up and this weekend will see more detail work in terms of getting the gear installed on the first super deck level so I can secure the boat deck and continue to work my way up in the superstructure.
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